How to actually improve your aim

Both work. Aim Labs is free and a gentler start; Kovaaks has the deeper scenario library most pros use. Whichever you pick, consistency beats the choice — 15 focused minutes daily beats a two-hour binge once a week.

Clicking through random scenarios feels productive but drifts. A benchmark fixes the scenarios, gives you a score to beat and a rank tier, and tells you honestly where your aim sits and what to train next. Two we rate:

Grab the Viscose Benchmarks sheet (File → Make a copy): it sorts scenarios by skill — control tracking, reactive tracking, flick tech, dynamic clicking — with score thresholds across its rank tiers (Wool up to Viscose). Pick the category that matches your weakness, train to the next tier, then move on. It pairs perfectly with the “train your weakness” rule below.

• Warm up (5 min): a smoothness/tracking scenario to load the motion, not to score.
• Train your weakness (10 min): tracking players drill flicks; flick players drill tracking. Train the thing you avoid.
• Play with intent: carry one cue into real matches (e.g. “pre-aim common angles”). Reps in-game count.
• Don't sens-hop: changing cm/360 resets muscle memory. Pick one (the converter keeps it consistent across games) and stick with it for weeks.

• One consistent cm/360 — the single biggest lever. Find it, keep it everywhere.
• Stable high FPS at or above your refresh — frame consistency > peak numbers.
• A surface matched to your style — control for flicks, speed for tracking. AimBench flags mismatches.
• Raw input / no acceleration — every input should map 1:1 to the same flick.

Free, the highest-ROI change you can make, and most players have at least one of these wrong. Fix them once and never think about them again.

Mouse DPI — use 800. It's the de-facto competitive standard: a clean native step on every modern sensor. DPI isn't “more precision” (the sensor's real resolution is far beyond what any hand uses) — it's just a multiplier. Set DPI to 800, then set your in-game sensitivity to hit your target cm/360. Don't chase a big DPI number.

Sensitivity — pick one cm/360 between 20 and 80, and keep it. Distance-per-360° is the only sensitivity measure peer-reviewed to affect aim, and consistency beats the exact value. Most pros sit in the 25–45 cm/360 band (lower = more arm: steadier tracking and recoil control; higher = more wrist: faster turns). There's no single “best” number — there's the one you keep. Lock it across every game with the sensitivity converter.

Polling rate — 1000 Hz is the floor, 2000 Hz the sweet spot. Below 1000 is a real gap to close; above 2000 the gains halve at every step (4K/8K shave fractions of a millisecond while spiking CPU load and draining wireless battery — sometimes net-negative). Set 1000–2000 and move on (full breakdown).

Windows mouse settings — the free fixes almost everyone misses:

• Turn OFF “Enhance pointer precision.” (Settings → Bluetooth & devices → Mouse → Additional mouse settings → Pointer Options.) That checkbox is mouse acceleration — the same flick travelling a different distance depending on how fast you move. The single most important toggle.
• Leave the pointer-speed slider on the middle (6th) notch. Every other position makes Windows scale your input non-1:1 (dropping or doubling counts).
• Enable raw input in-game wherever it's offered — it bypasses the Windows pointer pipeline entirely, so only your DPI and in-game sens matter.
• Set sensitivity in-game, not in the OS or your mouse software — and skip any “angle snapping”/“smoothing” option your mouse software offers.